December 27, 2011

[TOKYO] restaurant Quintessence | レストラン カンテサンス

Address: 5-4-7 Shirokanedai, Minato-Ku, Tokyo | 東京都港区白金台5-4-7
Tel: (+81) 03.5791.3715
Web: http://www.quintessence.jp/
Price: ¥7,875pp (7 dishes including dessert with a digestif | 料理とデザートで7皿前後・食後の飲み物)
He says...
Choosing between Quintessence and L'Osier (both Michelin 3-star French restaurants) was a tough decision. In the end, Quintessence won out for its modern take on French cuisine, as we decided to save traditional French food for elsewhere (a long-overdue trip to Europe) - or possibly a later time in Tokyo.
I began calling for reservations starting late October, roughly two months in advance for lunch around the Christmas time frame. Over the course of two weeks, I probably made over thirty calls, but was always greeted by a busy signal. Just as I was about to give up, on a glorious Saturday morning in November, the call finally went through, and a lovely lady took my lunch reservation for two on December 28th.
Full of anticipation, we made the short trek to Ebisu on the agreed date. The restaurant is located in the quiet neighborhood of Shirokane, and was very easy to find. After checking in our coats, we were led to a private room, with a large table impeccably set for two. The unique marble slabs in place of plate settings was a nice touch.


He says...
Our waiter greeted us warmly in English as he handed us the menu. Upon closer examination, the ‘menu’ was in fact blank, with an explanation outlining the importance of seasonal ingredients, and the concept of ‘omakase’ or literally, ‘entrust’ - serving according to the chef's expert judgment.


Soupe de laitence et champignons | Soft roe and mushroom soup
He says...
The soup had an amazing presentation of two distinct layers: cream of mushroom (topped with a thin layer of foam) on top, and cabbage soup below. I was immediately reminded of my Christmas lunch at Gordon Ramsay a few days earlier, as the soup appeared quite heavy. In fact, while the mushroom soup was earthy and creamy, the dish overall was in fact surprisingly light. The cabbage in the second layer was executed extremely well - soft, but not at all mushy. One thing worth noting was the perfect portion size of the soup - it was just right as anything more would have been too heavy.
She says...
I was especially impressed with the layer of cabbage soup, which had the consistency of softly steamed egg white. With each bite I was surprised all over again by how simple cabbage can be transformed into such deliciousness! The cabbage soup was the highlight; the cream of mushroom was a perfect compliment as it brought a taste of the decadence of cream, without being overpowering.


Assaisonnement | Goat milk Bavarois with chef's favorite olive oil and salt
He says...
This was made from goat milk that arrived this morning from Kyoto prefecture”, our server informed us with a tone of obvious pride, setting the next elegant dish in front of us. I later confirmed with my Japanese co-workers that, indeed, Kyoto produce is regarded as the best of the best in Japan. The presentation of the dish was simple: Bavarois in olive oil, topped with fleur de sel and a mixture of shaved Macadamia nuts and lily bulbs… yet I knew it was special immediately after I laid my eyes upon it.
The Bavarois was light and supremely fresh, and reminded me of yogurt with just a slight hint of sourness. The olive oil was instantly distinguishable as premium, possessing the fragrance of the freshest oil, and offering an extremely fruity taste to the palate - a little grassy and apple-like, unctuous and refreshing at the same time. The shaved Macadamia nuts were lightly roasted with a rich nutty taste, and provided a nice contrast in texture. The combination with Macadamia brought out the bittersweet taste of the otherwise muted byakugo (lily bulb), as well its soft texture contrasted with an ever so slight hint of firmness. Both Macadamia and byakugo worked very well with combination of Bavarois, olive oil and salt; everything, in fact, made perfect sense together! Each and every bite was a surprise anew. It was yin and yang in one bowl, presenting superbly subtle yet distinctive tastes. It was the epitome of balance, creativity and confidence. The chef opened the stage for the high-quality ingredients he carefully selected: they were the stars, they did all the talking. Simply a perfect dish in every way possible.
She says...
I was hit, first and foremost, by the purest, most unadulterated taste of dairy, in the texture of softly whipped cream. Then came the smooth, fragrant, and supremely unctuous olive oil in all its fruity-ness - as the chef's favorite, it speaks volumes of his sensibility and taste. Each individual salt crystal melts on the tongue, balanced by the sweetness of byakugo. For me, the byakugo was truly the standout that brought the dish together; the macadamia shavings did add an interesting touch of contrast, but I found myself looking forward to each bite of byakugo. The portion size was perfect - not so much to be overwhelmingly rich, but enough to tease the palate and left me wanting more. It was a dish that put all other claims of complexity to shame.


She says...
This nutty, crusty bread was perfect for washing away lingering aftertaste of cream prior to moving on to our next dish...


Cake salé aux champignons de Paris | Mushroom cake salé
He says...
This dish presented a complex flavour composition, combining the sweetness of cake salé, nuttiness of the parmesan, earthiness of mushrooms with hints of salt and citrus, followed by the freshness of herbs. As in the Bavarois, everything in this dish served a great purpose. The cake carried the mushroom salad and bound the whole dish together.
She says...
Upon my first bite, I was surprised as the rich, nutty flavor hit the palate, immediately balanced by the fragrance of dill. The cool mushrooms played against the warm cake salé, and the Parmesan was perfectly browned and creamy, almost like butter (and completely overrode my personal aversion to Parmesan). The scallop was interesting with an almost crunchy texture. Again, the whole dish was distinctive in its perfectly execution of contrasting flavors, temperatures, and textures.


Cuisson nacrée | Roasted managatuo (harvest fish)
He says...
And with that, we moved on to the first of our two mains. Our fish course comprised of two pieces of the same fish, cooked in two ways; both were pan seared first, but with one piece cooked on high temperature, and the other slowly roasted in low heat. The small piece was cooked perfectly, with crispy skin over juicy fillet. The larger piece of fish was much more interesting - its center carried a tinge of pink. Our waiter informed us that this larger piece was in fact cooked through, despite some resemblance to sashimi. The sauce had a nice amount of herbs and citrus, and was very creamy. The Kyoto spinach was somewhat crispy, but I didn't understand its place on the plate.
She says...
The fish was impressively executed, tender with crispy skin and the slight but unmistakable texture of sashimi inside the fattiest parts. The creamy fish stock was so rich it took on a golden hue, and carried just the right amount of acidity. I found myself questioning how the chef managed to infuse the sufficient amount of acidity into the stock - could it be from the parsley and herbs alone? On the side, nutty grilled hazelnut chunks were well-balanced by - and brought out - the sweetness of young spinach.


Canard challandais rôti | Roast canard challandais
He says...
Following the fish was the meat course, and duck was the meat au jour. Our waiter informed us that the duck was pan fried whole, to give its skin a crispy texture, then baked for three hours in a high temperature oven, alternating between one minute of roasting and five minutes of cooling, repeated over thirty times! The result: a perfectly roasted duck. I had actually seen this technique explained on Heston Blumenthal's In Search of Perfection, and was delighted to taste a meat prepared with this method.
There were two sauces served with the duck: a tangy licorice sauce, and a cognac sauce with pork blood. Both sauces went extremely well with the duck, and the pork blood cognac sauce had an amazing texture. On the side was a serving of daikon (Japanese radish) from Kyoto - crunchy with a hint of citrus, it brought a refreshing contrast.
She says...
The skin of the duck was more sinewy than crisp, and the meat was deliciously rare and veined with fatty bits. Both sauces brought some nice acidity to the palate, the licorice sauce especially so, with a sweetness that reminded of Peking duck. Although the licorice was my favorite, the cognac sauce also complimented the duck, not competing with its flavor but rather leaving a lingering finish of cognac on the tongue. The side of daikon had a slight hint of burnt caramel and added some additional sweetness to the dish.


Galette de chataigne | Japanese chestnut galette
She says...
I personally love the subtle yet earthy fragrance and flavor of chestnut, and this dessert did not disappoint! The galette was warm and moist, wonderfully smooth in texture and infused with the aroma of chestnut. The cream was pleasantly cool on the tongue, not too sweet with a softly whipped texture, interspersed with chunky yet soft chestnut pieces.


Glacé meringue | Meringue ice cream
He says...
In an impressive transformation, meringue is frozen, crushed, and remade into ice cream, served with a spray of concentrated seawater, providing a nice balance between sweetness and saltiness.
She says...
The creative meringue ice cream was the perfect closing to the meal, finishing with a re-emphasis on the themes of balance and complexity. The wonderfully smooth ice cream has the purest taste of egg white, and is perfectly balanced by the slightly salty seawater forming a film of tiny bubbles atop of oval scoop. An incredibly elegant dessert!


She says...
And the perfect latte to finish... Ahhh...


She says...
As we made our way out, the chef came into the lobby to personally greet us, and we were surprised by how young he is! He has a friendly but shy smile, and speaks only a little English. We profusely express our deep appreciation for his complex and creative cuisine, and bows were exchanged all around. A perfect meal - and a restaurant that I will continue to dream about until we next return!

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